The last trip for the pilgrims on the bus is to Tivoli.
Tivoli (or: Tibur) is an ancient Etruscan settlement that proudly traces its history back to the 13th century BC. It has been Roman since 339 BC and became known as a beautiful resort with good water and a mild and moderate climate. Located about 30 kilometres from Rome, it was a perfect place for Romans who built their villas here.
Many popes and cardinals also liked the location, and so, Tivoli has a long history of powerful owners. In 1001, Emperor Otto III conquered Tivoli and the town fell under the papal control. In the 15th century, Pope Pius ll built the Rocca Pia Castle as a symbol of the permanence of papal power and authority.
When the bus with the pilgrims arrives in Tivoli, they stop in front of the Rocca Pia Castle and walk around this fortified castle which was built on the top of the hill in Tivoli’s town centre. The castle with the four towers looks so magnificent that it is hard to just walk by. However, the road alongside the castle is busy and it would not be safe to stand on the street to take the perfect picture. The sky is now getting darker and it looks like rain is coming.
The pilgrims follow the guides with the little blue flag and the Franconian flag and arrive at Piazza Trento. From there, they have access to the Church of Santa-Maria Maggiore and to Villa D’Este. The first drops of rain fall, and quickly turn into a rain shower, and most pilgrims enter the church faster than intended.
The church is called Santa Maria Maggiore, just like the one in which Pope Francis rests. However, the Tivoli church is much older than the Roman basilica. It was founded in the 9th century, and some people even think that it is from the 5th century.
Around the year 1256, the church and the adjacent convent were assigned to the care of the Conventual Franciscan friars. Pope Pius II later entrusted its care to the observant Franciscan friars.
Since 1856, following the collapse of the parish church of Santa Croce (1843), the church of Santa Maria Maggiore has taken on the name of that parish.
It is fascinating to see so many chandeliers in the Sanctuary: a half-circle of chandeliers at the front and one at the back of the Sanctuary. They are almost like a baldachin with the painting of a dove symbolising the Holy Spirit at the highest point of the ceiling and the high altar with a Marian icon and the writing “Theotokos” (God Bearer) underneath.
This Romanesque Franciscan church is quite a contrast to the Gothic Dominican church where the pilgrims celebrate their final Mass of the Pilgrimage.
It takes only a few minutes by foot to reach San Biagio (St Blase) church at Piazza del Plebiscito. When walking towards the church, it doesn’t really stand out. The tufa facade of the same colour and similar structure as many other buildings, with no tower visible (the bell tower was destroyed by bombing in 1944), the church surprises with its interior. The church and convent, originally named Santa Maria De Gloria and later San Biagio were built in the 13th century and completed in the 16th century. In 1285, Pope Honorius IV donated the church to the Dominican Order.
The oldest artwork in this church is maybe the beautiful fresco of the Crucifixion in the chancel (13th century). Right in front of this fresco of the Crucifixion is a huge statue of the resurrected Jesus, and it appears as if he had emerged out of the painting as the true victor.
In San Biaggio, there are several paintings and sculptures of Mary and of Mary with the Child. One of the paintings is a copy of The Untier of Knots, but without Mary wearing the crown of stars. The original painting from Augsburg, Germany, was one of Pope Francis’ favourite paintings.
There is also another beautiful painting of Mary and the child at the corner to the Sanctuary which looks more modern as well as a statue of Mary and Jesus with crowns in a Gothic side altar.
It is the month of May, which is for Catholics the Month of Mary.
The Franconian brass band and the clergy are getting prepared. The pilgrims are arriving in the church. They place some religious items they have bought on the balustrade for the archbishop to bless them.
Many of the hymns at Mass are dedicated to Mary, and all pilgrims sing with gratitude in their hearts and souls. Gratitude for the pilgrimage in Rome, for the companionship experienced and seeking for a safe return home.
The pilgrims sing the Jubilee 2025 song in German:
Licht des Lebens, Flamme unsrer Hoffnung!
Dieses Lied, es steige auf zu dir.
Gott, dein Schoß hält ewig uns geborgen.
Voll Vertrauen gehen wir mit dir.
In English:
Like a flame my hope is burning, may my song arise to you:
Source of life that has no ending, on life’s path I trust in you.
BM
Series Diary of a Pilgrim
